Last night's dogbite: Union
Champagne, Creme de Cassis, Drinkage, Gin, Liqueurs July 11th, 2008
Way out west there was this fella, and his drink, I wanna tell ya about. Goes by the name of Keith Waldbauer. His drink goes by the name, “Union“. At least that was the handle its loving creator gave it. Now, “Union” – there’s a name no man would seek out to associate himself with in the South where I come from. But then there was a lot about Keith that don’t make a whole lot of sense. And a lot about where he lived, likewise. But then again, maybe that’s why I found the drink so darned interestin’. See, they call his bar “Union” too; but I can’t say I’ve come here to talk about that, exactly. But I’ll allow it as there are some nice folks there, in Seattle. ‘Course I ain’t never been to London, and I ain’t never seen France. And I ain’t never seen no queen in her damned undies, so the feller says. But I’ll tell you what – after drinking the “Union”, and this here story I’m about to unfold, well, I guess I seen somethin’ every bit as stupefyin’ as you’d seen in any of them other places. And in English, too. So I can die with a smile on my face, without feelin’ like the good Lord gypped me.
Now this here drink I’m about to tell you about came about in the early twenty aughts – just about the time of our conflict with Sad’m and the I-raqis. I only mention it because sometimes there’s a drink… I won’t say a classic, ’cause, what’s a classic? Sometimes, there’s a drink. And I’m talkin’ about the Union here – the Union from Seattle. Sometimes, there’s a drink, well, it’s the drink for its time and place. It fits right in there. And that’s the Union. The Union, from Seattle. And even if it’s a fine drink – and the Union is most certainly that. Quite possibly one of the more finest in all of King County, which would place him high in the runnin’ for worldwide. Sometimes there’s a drink, sometimes, there’s a drink. Well, I lost my train of thought here. But… aw, hell. I’ve done introduced it enough.12
Union
- 4 mint leaves
- 2 drops rosewater
- 2 barspoons creme de cassis
Muddle the above in a mixing glass.
- 2oz Hendrick’s gin
Fill mixing glass with ice and stir. Strain into a cocktail glass and top off with 1oz prosecco or other light sparkling wine. Garnish with a single rose petal3 .
This drink was developed by Keith as a way of reviving an old cocktail at Union as well as a way to honor his recent betothral to his fiancee’, Christine4 . A wonderful story and a wonderful drink, if you take a few precautions. See, there is a lot going on in this drink. Everyone that tried it that evening immediately commented on two things; the floral aromatic and the mouthfeel. An extemely important, but easily overlooked, component in this drink is the rosewater. I’m not sure what they use at Keith’s bar, but the store-bought, if overapplied, creates an oily feel to the drink which can turn some people off. So, when it says ‘two drops’, grab your eyedropper and use exactly that, two drops. An incautious pour will send this over the edge like Walter Sobchak at a bowling tournament.
Also, I think Hendrick’s is an ideal gin for this; I wouldn’t change a thing in the gin but understand that this is a gin-lover’s drink. People unused to or put off by gin will not find many charms here, which leads me to my next warning: use an artisanal creme de cassis if at all possible. I’m forced to use Hiram Walker Creme de Cassis in this cocktail backwater and it drags the drink down a touch with its tacky and sachharine quality. Using Massenez Creme de Framboise did wonders for it, but changed the drink’s character significantly.
Other than that, the mint and gin play together like young lovers (as they almost always do) and everything else at the gathering can be made to swing in style with them if handled properly. It has a high degree of complexity but loses its depth when a cheap liqueur is used or the rosewater is allowed to overrun things.
I’d be curious what rosewater they use at Union for the drink and what Keith has to add regarding the drink’s construction. That is, if he’s not too busy packing and can forgive my using, and enhancing, the picture at the top of the page.5
Union Rating:




6
- this is, hopefully obviously–if not, go rent, buy, or download ‘The Big Lebowski’ this instant and see what genius the Coen brothers make of a Raymond Chandler crime story, NOW–a riff on the opening monologue by ‘The Stranger’ at the beginning of the film. A film a deep affinity for which I share with Keith [↩]
- explaining the heart border is a little tougher, keep reading if you haven’t already [↩]
- or an impatiens as supplies allow [↩]
- hence the hearts above [↩]
- i.e. I hope he doesn’t whoop my ass at Restaurant August next week… [↩]
- kick this to 3.5-4 if it comes together perfectly, but it’s a delicate drink [↩]








what an honor to be introduced by The Stranger… and damn, that picture!!!
okay, about The Union. Yes, delicacy is a must. The rosewater is the same you get anywhere, but yes a dropper is called for here. You’re trying to convey the ephemeral feel of roses, otherwise the bitter elements in the rosewater come out. Start with one drop, go from there. The creme de cassis definitely needs to be artisan. I use Edmund Briottet, which does not have the weird mouthfeel or alchemical taste. A light hand is essential here, too, no matter which creme de cassis you’re using. Also, experiment with different bubblies, as that can make a huuuuuuge difference. I’ve been using Lucien Albrecht Cremant instead of prosecco lately, and that’s changed it to almost a different drink.
hope this helps…
The Waldbauer Abides….
Excellent input, Keith! I’m going to be doing some liquor store visits while in NOLA and will certainly be looking up some artisan liqueurs while there because I’m extremely limited here.
I didn’t consider the sparkling wine much and used a Brut, but I’ll pay more attention to it next time. Thanks, Waldbauer, you really pulled the post together…
See you next week.
Great post! Love the filigree…the hearts aren’t THAT noticeable…thanks for the honorable mention, too, though the only help I gave in the Union’s creation was to drink the ones that didn’t make the cut. Tough job I have…!
I know, Joana suffers the same fate of being my test subject on successes and abject failures alike.
It’s a thankless job, for sure. You all will just have to continue to suffer through it, poor dears.
Look forward to seeing you there!