MxMo XXX: The Do-si-Do
Champagne, Drinkage, Liqueurs, Mixology Monday, Pimento Dram, Rum August 12th, 2008
I started out this project with watermelon in mind1 . See, watermelon is Oklahoma’s state vegetable2 and grows exceptionally well in our long growing season. The thing is, I hate watermelon. The texture, mealy; the flavor, insipid; and the messiness, a problem, it’s never been among my top five favorite forms of torture. But, try to use it as a cocktail ingredient, I did, and came up short. Rather than muddling it as at least one TotC tasting room did, with somewhat not unpleasant results, I created “watermelon water” by dicing half a watermelon and letting gravity strain it through cheesecloth. The result has a beautiful color without much else to recommend it. Try to make a watermelon-based cousin to the margarita and you get a fairly good use of tequila in a non-offensive way, but nothing that features watermelon as a flavor or makes one take notice. Try using it with citrus vodka instead and you get a watered-down effect that makes one neither fond of watermelon, or vodka3 . So, screw it, I’m moving on to peaches and raspberries, dammit. Watermelons, and the state legislature, can go to hell.

- 2 oz gold rum (used Angostura)
- 1/2 oz lemon juice
- 1/2 oz agave nectar
- 1/4 oz Allspice dram
- 3 fresh peach slices (approx. half of a peach)
- 4 fresh raspberries
- 2 oz Prosecco sparkling wine
Place the agave nectar, peach slices, and raspberries in a mixing glass and muddle well. Add all remaining ingredients except sparkling wine and shake well with ice. Fine (or double) strain into a chilled cocktail glass and top with prosecco. Garnish with dirty looks in the watermelon’s direction.
This is my first time working with agave nectar and it has an interesting effect in that it gives a more earthy and rich sweetness than simple syrup or granulated sugar. It reminds me of a heavy demerara simple syrup. It, along with the high amount of muddled fruit, give this drink an extremely thick and heavy body prior to the addition of the sparkling wine. I wouldn’t use Brut or Extra Dry with this as they will push the drink a little too much toward the dry category and mask the spiciness of the allspice dram and tartness of the raspberries.
When Joana tried this she said, “I think you have a winner; there’s a lot going on there but it all comes together.” And that’s what I noticed as well, that all the constituent parts retain their character but ultimately balance and bounce around the palate without clashing. I’m not a huge raspberry fan but seeing as how blackberries and mulberries weren’t on-hand, though they grow well here too, I went with them and it paid off handsomely. This is a cousin to the Bramble or Blair’s Shamble but being served up and with the sparkling wine floater it takes on different character from that family.
Thanks to Kevin of Save the Drinkers! for hosting. We didn’t get to cross paths or formally meet at Tales, mainly because I was intimidated by his well-coiffed hair and very clean t-shirts. I’ll have to not make the same mistake twice next year.
The Do-si-Do Rating:











Watermelon pretty much sucks. I’ve got you in the roundup.
Indeed it does. It’s the 2nd time I’ve tried working with it and figuring out a fitting combination; no luck. Thanks for getting me into the mix.
I also love Agave syrup. Great post!
“People against ‘People that Hate Watermelon’, unite!” We can’t let these horrible, watermelon-hating bastards talk down about the most glorious of edible fruits. Watermelon-haters must obviously be a group of bitter, self loathing ‘non-tasters’. That or they’ve never had a good watermelon…
So yeah, I agree, heh. Watermelon doesn’t really work all that well in the cocktails that I’ve tried it in either. I did have some decent luck when I reduced the hell out of watermelon juice though. FWIW.
You’ve hit the main problem on the head I think, Morgan; concentration of flavor. If you muddle it, it gets too mealy and still tastes a bit watered-down. If you make the ‘watermelon water’ it can’t hold up to much else and if you try countering that by using vodka as a base it just tastes further diluted.
So, yes, if you can somehow concentrate the flavor without resorting to an evil “watermelon pucker-artificial-bubble-yum” liqueur then you might have hope.
It’s not the flavor I object to, it’s everything else about it.
Meh, vodka. Try bone dry martini’s with plymouth gin and a couple of bar spoons of watermelon juice. Beautiful.
It’s my secret shame that I don’t exactly care for Plymouth gin. It’s smooth to me but I honestly don’t see where it’s vaunted complexity comes in. To me it tastes like a stripped-down London Dry.
This isn’t, in itself, a bad thing but I have trouble feeling a drink isn’t improved when using a traditional London Dry versus Plymouth. “New Western Dry” or whatever we want to call it is another matter altogether, but Plymouth just doesn’t rock my socks.
Let the flogging commence.
Excellent color on the cocktail Gabriel! I’ll pretend you like Plymouth for my sanity
And before you retaliate, I got a bottle of Wray and Nephew overproof and I love it.
Heheh, “retaliate”. But, to be completely honest, I haven’t given Plymouth a formal taste-test and it’s just my impressions from using it as a mixer. As for Wray & Nephew, I love the stuff, especially considering it’s the only high-proof rum I can get outside of Bacardi 151 here. That tends to grow the fondness a bit.
It’s great for making pimento dram (nice musty character) but it’s been scarce here of late.
Interestingly enough chow just had a recipe for drunken watermelon pops … not really a cocktail … but still I figured it’d be appropriate.
http://www.chow.com/recipes/11883
The plymouth london thing is difficult; I find that Plymouth gets some fruitier notes that remind me of Tanqueray 10, without the extreme pricing. I’ll always push for a Plymouth or Millers in a martini (and hey, I drink my gin martinis dirty so it probably matters not at all, in which case I do it to support the South West UK industries!), as personal preference, but as I no longer work behind a bar I’ve stopped being too concerned…
I like the color of this cocktail and the name too.
Count me among the melon-haters. Watermelon, honeydew, cantaloupe…I can’t stand any of ‘em. It’s probably why I always enjoyed David Letterman throwing them off rooftops.